Italian cool-girl brand Marni, headed by Consuelo Castiglioni, showed its usual mix of muted colors with a touch of 70s print and pattern. From an accessories standpoint, she covered all the bases head to toe. Our favorites: the long vests, leather plaque belts and quirky patterned socks.
This collection runs the full inspirational gamut, from the boldest optical print to oversized florals in bold hues of purple and blue and bark prints in gray.
Thakoon Addition put a fresh spin on pre-fall outwear, featuring vests that wrapped, buttoned and closed at the top. Lengths were a mix, from long and lean to shorter and even asymmetrical. Pockets offered warmth, not to mention a place to stash a cell phone.
There were lots of shades of grey for Alberta Ferretti, who focused on a creative mashup of lush velvets, fur, touches of chain mail and satin. Accessories included weighty and embellished backpacks, fanny packs, chokers and more.
Dramatic plaids and paisleys were on the agenda for Mary Katrantzou, who has moved on from her signature photorealism prints but kept her aesthetic for bold print and pattern. Paisley appliques, shown over a plaid suit or as a lace embellishment offered variety.
Giambattista Valli is rockin’ the 60s/70s vibe that is running through fashion. Touches of animal print and snake accent painterly chevrons and florals on flare pants and dresses.
Starring 70s rock-n-roll platinum haired models, long and lean was the word at Costume National, where long skinny scarves tied once or twice around necks. Other accessories included fringed bags and a dramatic caged bucket.
The 70s were in full swing at Emanual Ungaro, where purples, olives and rust were patchworked, colorblocked and accented with fur, metallics and star motifs. Pleated pants and grommets gave hints of the 80s.
Perfectly tailored leathers (in rich reds and wines) cinched with corset belts and moto jackets tipped with fur collars and capes made this a dramatic collection.
Coldweather accessories got plenty of play at Markus Lupfer, accessories shift and party dresses. Look for beanies with bold embellishments, right neck rings and longer, cozy scarves that wrap and wrap.
Alexander Wang continues with his style of utilitarian chic, this time featuring oversized boxy satchels, hobos and backpacks, angled zippers on apparel, sleeveless blazers and winter white leather. Fishnets–both black and nude–add a touch of retro punk.
Grosgrain straps, utilitarian buckle clasps, patchwork lace, creative botanicals and and a preppy palette of kelly green, pink and yellow are the hallmarks of Christopher Kane’s pre-fall collection. Black leather adds edge in many instances.
Grommets made subtle and not-so-subtle appearances all over Mugler’s show, designed by David Koma. From a functional fastening element to a way to show some skin or a colored layer behind, this little circle packs a powerful punch.
Styling for Joseph was clean and sharp, yet still cozy. From self-tie scarves and belts built right into the apparel, other accessories included striped fur, knit hats, long sweater vests and capes, all in ivory, rust and black.
Max Mara went into the woods this season, printing bobcats, owls and other woodland creates on fur and fabric. Fur sleeves, fur vests, fur hats with tiny ears carried the mood, all in browns and grays.
Kenzo takes a futuristic, post-apocalyptic approach with shocks or electric orange and blue, mixed with patchwork clothing and coldweather pieces that seem constructed from scraps of fabric. Fuzzy fur shows up in slippers and hoods.
Lisa Perry doesn’t shy away from bold color and this season was no exception. With her usual Mod/Preppy/Sporty twist, she captured the Athleisure trend with accent stripes, drawstrings, sweatshirt material and electric colors.
From black-and-white formal wear to cozier weekend wear, Givenchy offered a wide range of apparel and accessories. For evening, the long silk scarf and vintage brooch stole the show, while for day, matchy-matchy printed bags and furs warmed up the gray landscape.
Diminutive designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen love creating voluminous designs that seem to swallow up their wearers. The season’s oversized blanket wraps, hobo bags, satchels and folded totes are no exception, all balancing out slightly monastic-styled clothing for the row.
Jeremy Scott, the kitschy designer for Moschino who brought us candy wrapper and fast-food dresses, is now all about tailoring–perhaps to let out a few seams to accommodate our post-binge bods? Look for measuring tape belts, bags and shoes, scissor motifs, wire hanger accents, a moto jacket handbags and …